-A lot of headset top race /collars will go on very tight, especially if you’re leaving the steerer tube uncut. If you’re having an issue fitting them, lightly sand around the top of the steerer. A little bit of alcohol will help, too.
-Crown races also may go on tight. Be sure to use an approved crown race setter, and don’t be afraid of givin’ it some. Not getting over the ridge? Lightly sand it down and use some grease or lube. Another handy trick is to put the fork in the freezer and heat up the crown race or top cap.
-Don’t put a star nut in this fork! Full carbon steerer tubes use a compression plug.
-This fork is set up for a front disc offset 135 mm hub. We include a spacer kit which may be used to correctly space the disc rotor, if you are using a rear disc offset hub.
-There is quite a bit of variation among front hubs. The gap between the rotor and caliper mount is as small as we could make it, for braking rigidity. Occasionally we will encounter a rotor hitting the caliper mounting studs. Sanding the rotor spacer a bit or gently sanding the caliper mount will take care of the problem, and won’t affect the performance or warranty. A small shim washer on the disc end of the hub works well to space the hub away from the fork.
-Occasionally there may be a bit of residual carbon in the disc mounting holes. Just a few strokes with a file should take care of it, and will not affect the integrity of the fork.
-Since these forks are molded carbon, it may be occasionally necessary to face the mounting surface. Just a little filing will set the mounting angle properly.
-The Carbon Obeast is designed for 160 mm rotors.